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When to visit the Dordogne

The Dordogne: by season

Many parts of the Dordogne and Perigord have visitors all year round. Even in January, Sarlat can be quite busy, but generally there are different characteristics to the region according to when you visit. Hence the need to visit several times...

Note that the weather towards the north-east of the region is significantly cooler and wetter than in the south-west of the department.

Dordogne in the Summer

The summer months of July and August are, of course, the most popular times to visit the Dordogne.

The weather is usually very good - temperatures are typically 30-35 degrees, and rain is unusual although evening storms are quite common.

Across the Dordogne Perigord region restaurants and attractions are all open and active, and many special events take place during these months - fairs, bodegas, fetes, evening markets etc

The downside is the sheer volume of visitors, which can lead to busy roads in 'Dordogne central' and sometimes queueing to get in to the major attractions.

Dordogne in Spring or Autumn

MontignacMay, June and September are beautiful times of year to visit the region. The weather is almost always warm and often as hot as high summer, although it is slightly more changeable so the chance of rain is slightly higher - it is very rare and unfortunate for a holiday to be ruined by rain in these months, although spring/autumn showers may occur.

(Note: I am writing this in the second half of May - our swimming pool is open and children were in it yesterday.)

The roads are quieter and the attractions easier to visit, and most if not all restaurants will be open.

In the spring, especially, the countryside is more lush and the scenery even more beautiful, since the daylight is slightly less harsh than in the summer.

Prices for gites and villas will be approximately 40% less than in July and August.

If I didn't live here all the time, this is when I would visit (but I don't like sunbathing or swimming pools...)

A perfect time for walking and cycling in the Dordogne, since the summer can be rather hot for these activities. A perfect time to visit some of the towns and villages that get especially busy in the mid summer such as Sarlat, Domme and Montignac.

Dordogne in Winter

From October to April the Dordogne is quite a different place to that known by most visitors.

The weather can still be very warm, but there is an increased chance of rain and cooler weather. During December - February it can be very cold (-5 to -10 at night is not uncommon) or very wet (not usually both at the same time).

Many cafes and restaurants, and attractions, will be closed during this period.

BUT. The roads will be almost completely quiet, the scenery just as beautiful. A sunny week in March with the blossom on the fruit trees can be magnificent. Dordogne and the Périgord in winter, with a frost on the ground, or even snow, or a mist rising in the valleys, can be very attractive.

So I would not rule out visiting at this time of year - and many people book a villa for Christmas week and enjoy themselves around an open fire.

You should be able to find a gîte or villa at prices some 70% less than summer-time prices. Negotiate with the owner, but check heating is included in the price.

Most of the chateaux stay open in the winter eg Chateau de Castelnaud and the Chateau de Beynac. Many of the caves close in the winter but the Lascaux Caves remain open as does the Grotte du Grande Roc and some others.

See the current Dordogne weather

Last thought after you have booked your visit - check out some common french phrases so that you can order your cassoulet and a glass of Bordeaux with no trouble!

16 Votes

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  1. We will be in France from mid December through the first week in January of 2010. I have fallen in love with all that I have read about the Dordogne, and read with dismay "except perhaps December to February". Assuredly, the caves will be closed. Can you give me any information about what may or will be open? Would we have difficulty finding places to stay or eat?
  2. We are thinking about visiting 25 March through 3 April, 2011. What is the weather generally at that time?
    Is that enough time for a visit?
    Are the famous caves open during that period?
    Looking forward to hearing from you!
  3. Places to stay and to eat exist all year round but are more challenging to find in winter. More are open in central Dordogne eg Sarlat than the outlying areas. The tourist office in your nearby town (also limited opening hours in winter!) will advise for your chosen locality.
    Many attractions are closed in mid-winter - a few remain open but you will need to contact any that are critical to your visit (their websites are usually horribly difficult to find visitor information!). March / April most main attractions have at least some opening, but again check first if something is critical for you - also find out opening hours as soon as you arrive (or sooner) so you know if 'caves X are only open tuesday pm etc.
    Weather is on its own page (see menu) - Dec/Jan can be lovely and clear, or pretty wet and miserable while march/april usually fine but can still be chilly or damp.
  4. Hi, I have read your page with great interest.

    I'm hoping to have my wedding in the Dordogne next Spring/Summer. I'd love warm and sunny weather but I'm particularly anxious to minimise the chance of any rain as we want to hold it outside. I was originally thinking early June, but what would you recommend for a warm, dry wedding!

    Many thanks!
  5. Hi Vivien,
    It usually seems to be the case that end-May to end July is the best weather (most sun / least rain) and if I was planning a wedding I'd gamble reasonably happily on June as being the best choice.
    No promises or guarantees though!
    Cheers and hope it goes well
  6. Hi
    Me and my wife plan to visit Dordogne.
    We think about June or September.

    To your opinion and experience which period is beter.

    Thanks
    Meir
  7. Hi Meir,
    Both June and September are my two favoutite months here - while both have a small chance of rain at some point usually they are both ideal times to visit. The end of September can sometimes see cooler weather so I personally choose June or beginning September. Plants and gardens probably look a bit greener in June, especially if the summer has been long and dry but otherwise I think there is not much to choose between the two. Have a good visit!
  8. Hi, my boyfriend and I are visiting Sarlatin August, will this area of the Dordogne be busy and full of tourists at this time?
    Thanks, Emma
  9. Yes the area will be reasonably busy - probably most noticable on one or two of the main roads and the entry roads into Sarlat. Don't worry too much though, everyone still enjoys it when they get there!
  10. I happen to live in the Dordogne most of the year, near Sarlat in a fairy tale village. You really cannot be sure how June will be, although "normalement" June 15 on should be safe from rain. This year it wasn't. June was cold and rainy. It started to stabilize in July. Now, going into the 3rd week, the weather is lovely...sunny, a little breeze, fairly dry (never dry enough for me coming from CA). Before that we had VERY hot, humid, dog days. It would seem September is better than June, more stable. I believe the best months for warm stable weather are July and August..but you'll see more tourists if you're a sociable type. Fairs and farmers markets are everywhere, as well as street artists. It's festive and the time to party. Winter has a very special light and beauty...any month. I remember loving to look at the countryside in Feb.two years ago. As the leaves appear on trees in March/April it's lovely, but damp and cool. Naturally, no one is around, so if you're a loner or in search of solitude and serenity, you might want to chance it. In terms of "activities" in winter/spring, you don't come here for that at that time; it's the quiet and wandering that make it wonderful.
  11. Hi, I would love to go to this region purely to see the caves with the age old art work from our ancestors. When you say that tourist places are closed in december, do you mean these??? I was hoping to get there in the first week of december ... holidays can be difficult tocome by!

    thanks
  12. My husband and I are having a difficult time clearing our calendar for our trip to Dordogne. October has just been ruled out. How would the first week in November be for visiting? I was looking forward to biking and canoeing, but am concerned that it will be too cool. Also, will we miss out on wonderful meals because restaurants are closed? Should we just be patient and wait until May?
  13. Jill, I have to say it's a bit of a gamble in early November, you might be lucky and have perfect weather - but there is a pretty high chance of cooler / wetter weather and my feeling would be that you are best waiting until May if you can...especially for a biking and canoeing type trip (I'm pretty sure most canoe centres are closed October - April)
  14. Kristylee, finding out and keeping track of cave opening times would be a full time challenge, but try this page which seems to have quite a few Dordogne caves opening hours
  15. Hi there, I would love to visit the Château de Hautefort can you tell me please where would be the closest place in Dorogne to stay where I could visit the castle? and is it opened all year round?
    thank you
    Michelle:-D
  16. We are hoping to visit Sarlat in May next year (2012) for our honeymoon, will it be too busy there then?
  17. Sarlat is beautiful and I should think May would be the perfect time to visit - it shouldn't be too busy and hopefully you will have good weather. Have a great honeymoon.
  18. Excideuil is a nice town near to the Chateau de Hautefort.
  19. I plan to visit the Dordogne in May 2012, possibly staying in Domme. I would like to forget the car and use public transport. Is there a convenient bus service between the towns in the Domme/Sarlat area ? Thanks
  20. Hi Tony, unfortunately public transport is more or less non-existent in the Dordogne.

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